A seasoned tech journalist with over a decade of experience covering UK startups and digital innovations.
Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.
The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The honour has left the owners totally shocked.
“I am totally surprised,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small shop earning such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.
This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.
Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.
The meat is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.
The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly profile.
Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.
The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.
“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This view is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.
In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.
Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.
“My mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.
This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.
A seasoned tech journalist with over a decade of experience covering UK startups and digital innovations.